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Destination Guide: San Franciscovanilla-scented fortune cookies down Ross Alley—a factory has producedthe folded wafers here since 1962—and glimpse murals depictingeveryday Chinatown scenes.EveningRoll through San Francisco’s many distinctive neighborhoods aboard thecity’s time-honored cable cars, past architecturally striking homes backedby sparkling waters and lush rolling hills. Ride the Powell-Mason line tothe Cable Car Museum and Powerhouse Viewing Gallery, where you’llencounter the massive engines and wheels behind the world’s lastmanually operated cable car system. Continue on the scenic PowellHyde line—its cars are marked with red signs—then disembark atLombard Street for a stroll down a steep one-block section of thisfamously crooked, chrysanthemum-speckled thoroughfare.Even if you have a stuffy nose while roaming North Beach (SanFrancisco’s own Little Italy), it’s hard to miss The Stinking Rose. Thoughit likely dissuades scores of visiting vampires, the eatery’s luminescent,multicolored sign boldly broadcasts the slogan “A Garlic Restaurant” intothe night. Inside, clusters of wine bottles and garlic bulbs hang fromabove, while every inch of wall space is covered by framed photographsand quaint murals. Accentuated by gilded mirrors and lamps, rows oftented red curtains along a narrow corridor create intimate diningspaces—the perfect setting for indulging in a tureen of pungent, garlicsteamed clams.Order the house drink named after Beat Generation icon Jack Kerouac(rum, tequila, orange and cranberry juice served in a bucket glass with alime) at Vesuvio on Columbus Avenue. Artists, chess players and poetshave crammed this gritty North Beach saloon ever since the On the Roadauthor made it a regular hangout. Between the bar and the adjacentlandmark bookstore, City Lights, a repaved alley named after Kerouacshowcases tablets engraved with his quotations, along with thecompelling words of other renowned writers.Day 2: MorningWhere else but Golden Gate Park can you gape at lounging bison,meditate in a Japanese Tea Garden filled with weathered Buddhasculptures and bronze lanterns, shoot arrows in an archery field, stareinto the “eyes” of a 19th-century African mask and examine a plantspecies that existed before the dinosaurs first roared? The verdant parkis home to numerous recreational facilities and such attractions as theConservatory of Flowers, the de Young Museum and the National AIDSMemorial Grove. The western edge of this rectangular, 1,107-acreexpanse—174 acres larger than New York’s Central Park—abuts thePacific coast.Order the Eggs San Francisco (two poached eggs with Dungeness crabmeat and toasted sourdough bread) at Cliff House-The Bistro. Thehistoric establishment overlooks the Pacific Ocean, where foaming wavessmash against rocks peppered by cantankerous seals. Though firedestroyed the first two Cliff Houses, the third—a neoclassic edifice built in1909—now houses a casual bistro. Providing a striking juxtaposition is amodern wing featuring a two-story, slate-and-glass dining room. FromCliff House, hike along the Coastal Trail’s undulating headlands, whereyou’ll find cypress and eucalyptus trees, deteriorating military batteriesand mesmerizing shoreline scenery.A less strenuous after-breakfast option is to contemplate your day besideAuguste Rodin’s the “Thinker.” A bronze cast of this celebrated, pensivefigure graces the courtyard of the Legion of Honor. Explore the interior ofthe Beaux Arts building, a three-quarter-scale replica of the Paris original.The museum’s collections include pastel Monets and abstract Picassos,English and French porcelain, Egyptian busts and vibrant prints byJapanese artist Katsushika Hokusai.Afternoon“If you’re going to San Francisco, be sure to wear some flowers in yourhair.” Heed the Summer of Love’s hippie anthem in Haight-Ashbury, oncethe psychedelic epicenter of 1960s counterculture. Bounded by FultonStreet in the north, 17th Street in the south, Divisadero and Castro streets4

Destination Guide: San FranciscoSan Francisco in 3 Days – Day 2 MapDay 2 Details - Get additional information on AAA.com;AAA Diamond Rating information available on AAA.com/Diamonds- GEM Attraction offers a Great Experience for Members- Exclusive AAA member discounts available1. Golden Gate ParkStanyan St & Fell StSan Francisco, CA 94117Phone: (415) 263-09912. Japanese Tea Garden8th Ave & Kennedy DrSan Francisco, CA 94118Phone: (415) 752-11713. Conservatory of Flowers100 JFK DrSan Francisco, CA 94117Phone: (415) 666-7001Get maps and turn-by-turn directions using TripTik Travel Planner on AAA.comin the east and Arguello Boulevard in the west, the neighborhood is todaya diverse commercial hub overflowing with vintage clothes shops,exclusive boutiques, trendy restaurants and bars, and independentlyowned record and book stores. Elegant, renovated Victorians also reignin this district, including a purple one on Ashbury Street once inhabited byscraggly haired Grateful Dead band members.Taste cask-conditioned ales surrounded by rich murals at Magnolia Pub& Brewery, housed in a refurbished building that, at one time or another,has functioned as a pharmacy, a bohemian gathering spot and a latenight dessert café run by a former burlesque performer. On weekends abrunch menu is dished up until 2:30 p.m., providing such scrumptiouseats as braised beef brisket hash and bourbon vanilla French toast.EveningSlide into one of the comfy red vinyl booths at Joe’s Cable Car4. de Young Museum50 Hagiwara Tea Garden DrSan Francisco, CA 94118Phone: (415) 750-36005. Cliff House-The Bistro1090 Point Lobos AveSan Francisco, CA 94121Phone: (415) 386-33306. Cliff House1090 Point Lobos AveSan Francisco, CA 94121Phone: (415) 386-33307. Legion of Honor100 34th AveSan Francisco, CA 94121Phone: (415) 750-36008. Magnolia Pub & Brewery1398 Haight StSan Francisco, CA 94117Phone: (415) 864-74689. Joe's Cable Car Restaurant4320 Mission StSan Francisco, CA 94112Phone: (415) 334-6699Restaurant for a root beer float and a fresh ground beef steak burger.Plastered with neon beer signs and Polaroids of faithful patrons, therestaurant offers such tried-and-true standards as the patty melt and theBLT inside a replicated San Francisco cable car. Of course, it’s muchmore fun to try out the menu’s more unusual variations. Bite into a juicy8-ounce burger smothered in homemade teriyaki sauce, or try one servedon a toasted English muffin.Pamper yourself in the Castro district, the heart of San Francisco’s gaycommunity. Concentrated around the intersection of Castro and Marketstreets, the locale is overflowing with a blend of exclusive, kitschy and5

Destination Guide: San Franciscoprovocative retailers, along with fluttering rainbow gay pride flags and adiverse array of people watchers. Marvel at elaborate handcraftedchocolate sculptures while savoring an egg-shaped truffle at JosephSchmidt Confections on 16th Street or splurge on stylish name-brandclothing at one of Rolo’s three polished stores. Afterward, pay it forwardat Under One Roof on Castro Street; since 1992, the proceeds from theshop’s funky souvenirs have benefited AIDS and HIV organizations.While such historic sites as the opulent Castro Theatre (see ourPerforming Arts article) provide entertainment for casual sightseers, thevillage also is known for its pulsing nightlife—from The Midnight Sun’slaid-back video bar (4067 18th St.) to the neighborhood’s pioneer tavern,Twin Peaks (410 Castro St.).San Francisco in 3 Days – Day 3 MapDay 3 Details - Get additional information on AAA.com;AAA Diamond Rating information available on AAA.com/Diamonds- GEM Attraction offers a Great Experience for Members- Exclusive AAA member discounts available1. Ferry Building MarketplaceOne Ferry BuildingSan Francisco, CA 94111Phone: (415) 291-32762. Pier 39Beach St & EmbarcaderoSan Francisco, CA 94119Phone: (415) 705-55006. San Francisco MaritimeNational Historical Park499 Jefferson StSan Francisco, CA 94123Phone: (415) 447-50007. Alioto's8 Fisherman's WharfSan Francisco, CA 94133Phone: (415) 673-01833. Fisherman's WharfEmbarcadero & Beach StSan Francisco, CA 94133Phone: (415) 674-75038. The Buena Vista Cafe2765 Hyde StSan Francisco, CA 94109Phone: (415) 474-50444. The Cannery2801 Leavenworth StSan Francisco, CA 94133Phone: (415) 771-31129. Gary Danko800 North Point StSan Francisco, CA 94109Phone: (415) 749-2060Get maps and turn-by-turn directions using TripTik Travel Planner on AAA.com5. Ghirardelli SquareBeach St & Larkin StSan Francisco, CA 94109Phone: (415) 775-550010. Alcatraz IslandSan Francisco, CA 94123Phone: (415) 981-7625Day 3: MorningBicycle, skate or walk past diligent pier workers and foraging seagullsalong The Embarcadero. The street bends along the northeastern6

Destination Guide: San Franciscoperimeter of San Francisco, which sits on a 7 mile by 7 mile plot on thetip of a peninsula. You’ll be treated to fantastic views of Bay Bridge, oneof the country’s busiest bridges, while such shopping meccas asEmbarcadero Center and Ferry Building Marketplace present countlessopportunities for self-indulgence. Hunt for a set of antique, hand-painteddishes or a chic pair of Franco Sarto loafers; sip traditional breakfast teaswhile testing out atypical desserts (at the Ferry Building, try Out theDoor’s black rice pudding or its luscious Vietnamese flan); or relish theheady aromas and tastes of a bustling farmers market, where top localchefs regularly demonstrate their innovative cooking techniques.AfternoonFollow The Embarcadero to Pier 39 and Fisherman’s Wharf. Skirt thecrowds encircling street-performing jugglers and magicians and headstraight for the pier’s most beloved entertainers—a herd of boisterous sealions. While you could easily spend several hours eating and souvenirshopping at these two popular tourist attractions, instead investigate thevicinity’s historic facets, including The Cannery, Ghirardelli Square andSan Francisco Maritime National Historical Park.Dine on Sicilian-style fried prawns or potato-crusted halibut fillets in atasteful restaurant overlooking vast stretches of docked yachts. Alioto’s,established at the wharf in 1925 as a fresh fish stall, also offers anoutdoor Dungeness crab stand, where busy cooks can be seen crackingand packing heaps of steaming reddish-orange crustaceans.Pair a glass of piping-hot Irish coffee from The Buena Vista Cafe—wherethe whiskey-infused, whipped cream-capped brew first was introduced toU.S. drinkers—with a decadent slice of Grand Marnier cheesecake.EveningExperience a meticulous blend of sophistication and comfort at GaryDanko, operated by a critically acclaimed American chef who usesclassical techniques to prepare extraordinary seasonal dishes. Three-,four- and five-course meals are presented with dramatic flair, while awine cellar stores more than 1,500 selections, including centuries-oldvintages and dessert wines from around the world.Venture to Alcatraz Island as night begins to fall. Thursday throughSunday evenings ferries depart just before dusk, transporting just a fewhundred visitors to “The Rock” for a dazzling panorama of the Bay Area.Augmented by the majesty of the Golden Gate Bridge at sunset, specialprograms recount the isle’s most triumphant (and most tragic) moments,affording an in-depth look at the former penitentiary and Civil War-erafortress.Or, if the San Francisco 49ers are playing, head to Monster Park (see ourSpectator Sports article) for gridiron excitement ignited by the legacies ofsuch hall of famers as head coach Bill Walsh (1979-88), cornerbacksJimmy Johnson (1961-76) and Ronnie Lott (1981-94), and quarterbackJoe Montana (1979-94). Formed in 1946 and incorporated into theNational Football League 4 years later, the team has collected five VinceLombardi trophies since their first Super Bowl win in 1982.RestaurantsAward-winning chef Gary Danko runs thistop-of-the-line restaurant in Pacific Heightswith impeccable service in an unstuffyenvironment. Tasteful modern art andlightwood touches enhance the dining room.Danko is a classic California chef withmodern French influences, and his cuisinereflects it. An impressive wine list featuressome 1,600 selections. For an appetizer, try lobster salad with avocadomousse or foie gras and duck confit terrine with pineapple mint chutneyand vanilla brioch. Creative entrées include pancetta-wrapped frog legsand horseradish-crusted salmon medallions. You won’t go wrong withany choice from the dessert tray, but your eyes may linger on the coconutpineapple Napoleon. Reservations are not easy to come by.While in San Francisco and in need of a steak, there’s no better placethan Boboquivaris on Lombard Street. The secret of Bobo’s steaks is dryaging, and the meat is so tender, you can cut it with a fork. The7

Destination Guide: San Franciscorestaurant takes its name from the Venetian court jester of comedy andentertainment. A giant marionette of Boboquivari hangs above the door,fitting in well with the mystical décor.A great place for a romantic evening is La Folie. Led by renowned chefRoland Passot, this kitchen prepares some of the finest French fareRestaurants Mapon the West Coast. The menu combines classic French cooking withCalifornia style—and a hint of whimsy, as reflected in the quail and foiegras lollipops. The dining room has a decidedly sophisticated elegance,as does the service.The menu changes daily at McCormick & Kuleto’s Seafood Restaurant toreflect fresh catches. Complementing the seafood specialties are a widerange of salads and appetizers, including fresh bay shrimp quesadillas.The three-tiered dining room in Ghiradelli Square offers panoramic viewsof San Francisco Bay, Angel Island and Alcatraz.Restaurants Details - Get additional information on AAA.com;AAA Diamond Rating information available on AAA.com/Diamonds1. Gary Danko800 North Point StSan Francisco, CA 94109Phone: (415) 749-20606. The Dining Room600 Stockton StSan Francisco, CA 94108Phone: (415) 773-61682. Boboquivaris1450 Lombard StSan Francisco, CA 94123Phone: (415) 441-88807. Fifth Floor12 4th StSan Francisco, CA 94103Phone: (415) 348-15553. La Folie2316 Polk StSan Francisco, CA 94109Phone: (415) 776-55778. John's Grill63 Ellis StSan Francisco, CA 94102Phone: (415) 986-00694. Fog City Diner1300 Battery StSan Francisco, CA 94111Phone: (415) 982-20009. Yank Sing49 Stevenson StSan Francisco, CA 94105Phone: (415) 541-49495. E & O Trading Company314 Sutter StSan Francisco, CA 94108Phone: (415) 693-030310. Azie826 Folsom StSan Francisco, CA 94107Phone: (415) 538-091811. Boudin Bakery & Cafe160 Jefferson StSan Francisco, CA 94133Phone: (415) 928-1849Get maps and turn-by-turn directions using TripTik Travel Planner on AAA.com8

Destination Guide: San FranciscoFog City Diner is no ordinary diner. Chefs, not short order cooks, preparethis excellent food. Walking into the chrome-and-neon dining car on TheEmbarcadero, you’re sure to feel a pang of nostalgia. There’s somethingon the menu for every taste, from Mexican and Chinese dishes to AllAmerican burgers and meat loaf. The mu shu pork burritos are three thinpancakes rolled in a cone and stuffed with stir-fried meat and vegetables.One word for the red curry mussel stew: spicy. Bring a friend and shareone of the large desserts. The line can be long, so call ahead forreservations.Restaurants MapAlways busy, E & O Trading Company features Southeast Asian-inspiredcuisine. At this tri-level restaurant near Union Square, you’ll find tastes ofIndonesia, Malaysia, Thailand, Vietnam and East India—all on one menu.The décor enhances the food, complete with bamboo accents, and thecenterpiece bar tends to be quite lively.One would expect elegance from The Ritz-Carlton, San Francisco, andone would find it at The Dining Room. Though this is fine dining at itsfinest, there’s a refreshing lack of stuffiness. The wait staff—excellentlytrained and engaging—is among the best in the city. Iron Chef winnerRon Siegel serves up wonderful haute French fare. The seared foie graswith huckleberry reduction is not to be missed.Enter the elevator at the plush Hotel Palomar, press the button for five,and you’ll be transported to a world of outstanding modern Frenchcuisine. The first things you’ll notice at the Fifth Floor are the zebra-printcarpet and the beautiful artwork. The dining room is understatedlyelegant. With so many fabulous menu selections—ranging from rabbit toskate wing to poularde—it might just be wise to go with the chef’s tastingmenu so you won’t have to make the tough decisions. The staff enhancesthe experience with grace and skill.A San Francisco landmark, John’s Grill was established in 1908. AuthorDashiell Hammett made this atmospheric restaurant a setting in “TheMaltese Falcon.” One can almost imagine Sam Spade sitting at the bar,surrounded by the dark oak walls (which now are covered with photos ofGet maps and turn-by-turn directions using TripTik Travel Planner on AAA.comRestaurants Details - Get additional information on AAA.com;AAA Diamond Rating information available on AAA.com/Diamonds12. McCormick & Kuleto'sSeafood Restaurant900 North Point StSan Francisco, CA 94109Phone: (415) 929-173013. Delfina3621 18th StSan Francisco, CA 94110Phone: (415) 552-405514. La Taqueria2889 Mission StSan Francisco, CA 94110Phone: (415) 285-711715. Joe's Cable Car Restaurant4320 Mission StSan Francisco, CA 94112Phone: (415) 334-6699all the celebrities and detectives who’ve eaten here). Hearty fare includessteaks, seafood, pasta and salads. Live jazz plays every night, and it’ssaid the drinks are pretty stiff.9

Destination Guide: San FranciscoIf you’re looking for dim sum, Yank Sing is the place. “Dim sum” is thegeneric name for a style of cuisine comprising hundreds of bite-sizeddelicacies. All a diner needs to do is point to the dishes on the cart. Besure to try at least one shrimp dish, as the shrimp here is among the bestyou’ll find. The atmosphere manages to remain serene, even with themany large parties and bustling carts. The staff is very efficient andknowledgeable. There are two locations, Rincon Center and StevensonStreet, both open only for lunch. No one in San Francisco does dim sumbetter.Azie is a striking restaurant best described as “dramatic.” The unique bilevel design creates the feeling of a bustling Asian street. Not to beoutdone, the food also has a flair for the dramatic. The chefs havecreatively combined the exotic flavors of Asia with traditional Frenchcooking techniques. There’s an extensive list of appetizers, and asampling of these can make a meal—try the iron skillet spicy prawns andthe crab spring rolls. If you’re lucky, you may find yourself at the eightseat chef’s counter to get a closer look at the unfolding drama.Clearly the best choice for mid-priced Italian fare in the city, Delfina ispacked every night. The seasonal menu changes daily, based on theofferings of local producers. This small neighborhood trattoria reflects itshome, the Mission District. Both the décor and the servers tend to be hipand arty. The buttermilk panna cotta may be the best you’ll tasteanywhere.Another hot—and spicy—spot in the Mission District is La Taqueria. Thiswell-established and very busy restaurant is always at the top of the heapwhen asking about the best Mexican food in town. You’ll be hard pressedto find better tacos and burritos. There’s no rice in the burritos, makingthem smaller but more flavorful. The quick-serve format is indeed veryquick; the long lines here move fast.Frequently recognized for the best burgers in town, Joe’s Cable CarRestaurant was originally designed to look like—what else?—a SanFrancisco cable car. This institution has been in the same location since itopened in 1965. The burgers are lean, slow-cooked, 100-percent USDAchoice beef chuck, ground daily on the premises. These hearty burgerscome in 4-, 6- and 8-ounce sizes. The 8-ounce version is known as thePaul Bunyan special, and it might take a lumberjack to handle it.San Francisco is as renowned for its sourdough bread as it is for its fog,and the best bakery is still the original. Boudin Bakery & Cafe dates backto 1849. Visit this Fisherman’s Wharf classic and watch the bakers makethe bread—and then line up to make a purchase while it’s still warm. Thisis San FranciscoAttractionsIn a city with dozens of attractions, you may have trouble deciding whereto spend your time. Here are the highlights for this destination, as chosenby AAA editors. GEMs are “Great Experiences for Members.”San Francisco sits on a peninsula, boundedon the west by the Pacific Ocean, on the eastby San Francisco Bay. At the northern tip isthe AAA GEM attraction Golden Gate Bridge,the landmark by which all travelers orientthemselves to the city. Golden Gate NationalRecreation Area, one of the largest urban national parks in the world,encompasses 59 miles of bay and ocean shoreline on both ends of thespan. Noted for its dazzling scenery, the park preserves some 1,250historical and cultural sites, including Alcatraz Island and Muir Woods.On any sunny afternoon, Golden Gate Park is one of the most popularplaces in San Francisco. This AAA GEM attraction has it all: botanicalgardens, museums, sports fields, playgrounds—even a buffalo enclosureand a fishing pond. Three miles south of its namesake bridge, the citypark covers more than a thousand acres between Stanyan Street andOcean Beach. A Dutch windmill stands at the western entrance; the whitedome of the Conservatory of Flowers dominates the eastern end. ThisVictorian greenhouse shelters a humid jungle of giant ferns and delicateorchids. The entire park is an oasis of exotic greenery.10

Destination Guide: San FranciscoFantastic, otherworldly plants from Chile, Australia, New Zealand andSouth Africa make the 55-acre San Francisco Botanical Garden atStrybing Arboretum an unforgettable walk. Free guided tours are givenevery day. The Japanese Tea Garden, developed for the 1894 World’sFair, is especially lovely during cherry blossom season in the spring.Attractions MapAttractions Details - Get additional information on AAA.com;- GEM Attraction offers a Great Experience for Members- Exclusive AAA member discounts available1. Golden Gate Nat’l Recreation Area2. Golden Gate ParkStanyan St & Fell StSan Francisco, CA 94117Phone: (415) 263-09913. Con

San Francisco, CA 94117 Phone: (415) 263-0991 3. Cliff House 1090 Point Lobos Ave San Francisco, CA 94121 Phone: (415) 386-3330 4. Alcatraz Island San Francisco, CA 94123 Phone: (415) 981-7625 5. Nob Hill 1100 California St San Francisco, CA 94108 6. Cable Car Museum and Powerhouse Viewing Galle